Day 2 in Israel – along the Lake Galilee

Originally I planned to drive to Nazareth at 7am to join the Pilgrim 11-mile walk along Jesus’ path, however, when I woke up, I found it was already 730 – somehow the alarm didn’t ring and I was obviously too tired to wake up by myself… Oh well, guess I will need to find my own way exploring the holy path then.

My first stop is, of course, the Church of Loaves and Fishes in Tabgha (means Seven Fountains in Greek) right next door. It also belongs to the Deutsche Verein so it’s a German church. The big rock in the sanctuary is marking the exact spot where Jesus laid the two fishes and five loaves (how amazing!!). Another famous spot in the church was the original mosaic on the floor showing a basket full of laves between two fishes but unfortunately I couldn’t take any picture because of the distance. The church was crowded by tourists that was almost unpleasant – although it says on the sign at the entrance of the church “This is a holy place for worship and please be silent inside the sanctuary. Please do explanations outside of the church”, there were still groups in front of the altar making lots of noise:( I guess most of the tourists came here out of curiosity instead of worship. 

I left rather quick since I was really afraid of crowds. In the yard there were ancient Olive press which is kind of interesting.

My next step was supposed to be the Church of the Primacy of Peter right next door, where Jesus showed himself in front of his disciples after the resurrection, but I missed the entrance so decided to come back the next day since it was so close to my hotel. I visited the Greek Orthodox church instead where Jesus also performed miracles at. That church is completely different style: so colorful that’s almost a little too much for me. But I really liked the outdoor worship area on the lake which I took the cover picture. 

The next stop is of course Capernaum: the village where Simon/Peter lived and Jesus performed many miracles at, also known as “Jesus’ own town (Matthew 9:1). It’s a very interesting historic site with all the ruins from ancient time. You can see the remains of Simon’s house (where Jesus cured Simon’s mother-in-law (Matthew 8:14-15)) (While I was standing on the original site of the Synagogue (where Jesus raised the daughter of the Synagogue leader) and looking at the village ruins, I really could see Jesus dressed in white robes walking through the small alleys with his disciples and other people surrounding him. I can even hear his voice and feel his breath! It was amazing! The new church built on top of the ruin was truly magnificent. I really admired the architecture – such a clever design! There was service going on so it was close to the public, pity! 

I was so excited driving towards Nazareth – this is the town Jesus grew up in! Also the place where Angle Gabriel appeared to Virgin Mary and told her that she was going to bear a baby. On the way I also passed through Cana – the village where Jesus performed his first miracle at the wedding: changing water into wine. Now it’s a very popular place for weddings:) The traffic was absolutely crazy in the middle of Nazareth which I didn’t expect at all. It’s a small town!! People really drive crazy on the main road – there is only one in the old city and extremely crowded. I managed to finally found a parking plaza and decided to walk. The heat is unbearable: it was only around 27 degree but felt more like 38!!! I can only imagine how it’s going to be like in summer! The city is situation over the hills in lower Galilee. 

First I went to the Greek Orthodox Annunciation church but unfortunately it was closed on that day. It was built on the site of Virgin Mary’s well. The vendor next to the gate was so friendly that he explained to me that it wouldn’t open until 6pm that night because the Greek Orthodox were celebrating their Easter, which was one week after us. Too bad. I didn’t think I can stay that late since the drive back would be about 1 hour long. Then I walked to look for the biggest and the first church in town, the Besilica of the Annunciation. Walking on the busy street for a long while but couldn’t find it. I saw it from the top but it disappeared as I got closer. I decided to stop at a small local restaurant which I saw before called “Vasace”. The woman owner was very nice and she spoke some English. It seems that the only food available there is Doener here. But I don’t mind at all. I always like Doener. What surprised me was the price: one Doener and one soft drink cost me about 7.5 US dollars – that’s quite expensive, at least a lot more expensive than China!!

After a quick lunch I went to look for the church again but actually walked into the local Bazaar first by accident. The alley was so small, actually reminded me of the local market in Xi’an by the Mosque. I was really not interested in the goods so just took some pictures but found the church along the way:) It is probably THE most beautiful church I’ve ever seen! The architecture was just overwhelming! The dome was built over a crypt enclosing the Grotto of Mary and Joseph’s home. The “Upper church” which you can see from the lower level through is remarkable with the daring design – I really admire the Italian architect Giovanni Muzio who made this landmark! Really impressive! Ironically, Nazareth is now the largest Arab city in Israel (I was told by the locals it’s because they have more babies…)

After about 2-hour walk under the Middle East sun, I had to stop and drove towards my next stop: Mt. Tabor, where Jesus transfigured in front of this three disciples at the top (Mark 9). Tried to set it on GPS and got really fooled by the stupid system. It took me to all the tiny local roads and then about 3-km unpaved road – so bumpy and dusty! Then going through very small town up the hill, so steep that finally I had to give up. I was sure the GPS had problem! I had no choice but to drive back to hotel. I got back on Route 90 and saw the “Mount Tabor” sign on the way!! It was a very high mountain. Probably the most steep and wining road that I’ve ever driven on! Parked the car at almost top (didn’t feel comfortable driving up anymore) and walked to the mountain top. The church was unfortunately already closed but I saw the magnificent view from the top so it was well worth it.

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