Shiyin??’s Blog

Sep 20  midnight Linzhi (Nyingchi)林芝 Xiaotian’e Hotel

We had the first bad weather day after our trip started. It rained all night the night before and was still raining when we left at 7:30am. Roads were ok but the temperature dropped dramatically as we climbed up the mountain. Before we reached Ranwu 然乌, it dropped to 4 degree and started snowing – the first snow we encountered on this trip! Last night was over 25 degree!! I noticed how much the temperature changes between night and day, from valley to mountain top – the difference is over 20 degree normally! Just the night before we were suffering from the over 30 degree heat in Zhuka! Can’t believe I am wearing my down jacket today!

It’s a pity that the weather was not as nice today. Without the clear blue sky, all pictures lost the color. Especially today’s highlight was supposed to be Ranwu, one of the most beautiful places in Tibet, or I should say in China – it’s supposed to be the combination of Alps glacier and Jiuzhaigou water. However, because of the rainy weather, the color of the water changed and most mountains were covered by clouds. It still looked beautiful, but not as what I saw before on Gao’s pictures: it is Gao’s favorite place in Tibet and he was also disappointed today. Well, one more reason to come back later, I guess.

Since there was not too much to see in Ranwu, we decided to leave early and drive directly to Linzhi today so that we would have a more relaxed day to get to Lhasa on Monday. 

Before Bomi, we had absolutely the worst road ever on this trip: 30 KM of “washingboard” road. The scenery was unbelievably beautiful, but the ride was unbelievably suffering: my whole body was completely numb because of the frequency of the bumps which I had never experienced before! I had never known that 30 KM was this long!!

But all day, I never felt being in Tibet: all the mountains covered by snow, the glacier, the lush forests, the running blue river (Lalong Zangbu 拉龙藏布 which merges into Yaluzangbu 雅鲁藏布）and mostly high quality paved roads, I almost felt being in Germany, Austria, or somewhere in Canada! I never known there is part of Tibet like this! Tibet is just so diverse!

When we arrived at the checkpoint of Pailong排龙 at around 1740, thinking that there was only 60 KM to get to Lulang and we could have the famous Stonepot chicken that Gao had highly recommended many times (we were very hungry already since we just snacked on the car for lunch in order to get to the next destination), the police gave us a card with our arrival time and told us that we have to reach the next checkpoint Lulang鲁朗  no earlier than 2 hours later and the last one “Bayi/Linzhi” also two hours later (also 60KM away) so that we don’t drive too fast!! This means we won’t be able to have our dinner until after 1940 and can’t get to our destination until 2140! Since the road condition is quite good at this part, this is really a torture.

We ended up arriving at Lulang at about 1915 and we had to wait outside of the town for 25 minutes in order not to be caught…and then we found out that the officers at the Lulang checkpoint had already left:(…

But the chicken soup was extremely delicious, just as Gao described. For only 60 RMB (6 Euro), it was really worth the wait…

Sep 19th

Today was all about mountain climbing – we drover over three big mountains and the roads were probably one of the worst on the Sichuan – Tibet Highway: It was so bumpy that I felt that my head was going to drop from my neck because of the bumps.  And we reached the highest altitude we’ve been so far on this trip: over 5100 meter – this is the first time that I felt a little discomfort  – the oxygen is at least 50% thinner than normal. The heartbeat was at around 90 which is not too bad at all – I am honestly quite proud of how my body reacts. Most of the day we were at over 4000 meter and I was totally ok.

After lunch and type repair in Zuogong, we left for Basu, on the way is the most difficult part of Sichuan-Tibet highway: The Nu River 72 turns. The road was not paved and extremely steep going down 2000 meter with 72 180-degree turns – this part is extremely famous and extremely dangerous, and extremely uncomfortable for people sitting in the car. Dongdala is extremely big so you don’t really feel like on a mountain road since the road extends so far on the same direction. Before we reached the summit, the grassland was really lush, however, once we started descending, it became very dusty and dry. Most mountains were naked rocks and the entire valley looked like that for miles and miles. 

The most beautiful view is right after the summit of Dongdala: the mountain peak looked absolutely phenomenal under the golden sunlight! I can only imagine how breathtaking it would be when it’s covered by snow in one month!!!

Finally arrived in Basu town after over 12-hour drive. We stayed at the government hotel which is the best in town (about 16 Euro per night) – well, at least it’s clean enough for me to be able to take a shower…

Sep 18 23:30 Zhu Ka local inn

We waited for almost 2 hours but still didn’t get to see the legendary sunrise on Mt. Kawadgabo 卡瓦格博山 （梅里雪山）- well, it is very difficult in this season anyway since there are too many clouds. We are already extremely lucky to be able to see all 13 mountains and especially the main summit the day before – one tourist told us that he had been here for 6 times but had never seen those.

Then we were stopped by the road block for 2.5 hours right outside of town. We didn’t get to leave until 11am. After 2-hour drive, we found that we had a flat tyre – what a day! Luckily Gao had brought all tools so it took us one hour to switch to the standard spare tyre – my first experience of switching type by ourselves!

We met a couple from Shenzhen that also were driving to Lhasa – they were extremely nice and we decided to go together as partners. The husband has also been to Tibet many times – he loves tibet so much that his cybername is in Tibetan:) – and he is also a member of the “Outdoor SUV e Community 越野e族” – a online community for all the SUV outdoor fans in China. Gao is also a member. This community is already all over China. Members are all the SUV owners who love travel and outdoor activities. They have sub-communities in each province and organize trips, contests, events and they provide information for each other. It’s very helpful. We could go to their online community and find out lots of road information (which is difficult to get in China) and all kinds of travel information, even to find hosts or contacts when you decide to go somewhere new. I am amazed to see how developed internet is in China. The couple got a very cute dog whose name is “Baocheng” that was also very excited about the beautiful scenery. 

Because of this 3.5 hour delay, it would be impossible for us to reach Zuogong 左贡 as we planned before. We had to change to stay overnight in Zhu Ka 竹卡, a very small village by the lanchang River since there will be another two biggest mountains to climb from Zhuka to Zuogong. 

Half of the roads were absolutely perfect – obviously they were just paved, but the other half were just rough and bumpy, very challenging for the car and also for us. 

In the afternoon, we reached Yanjing 盐井which means officially we were in Tibet – how exciting! My first time to Tibet!

We passed by many beautiful and peaceful Tibetan villages – the living standard is clearly extremely high: almost each family has a 2-3 story newly built house, which is very hard to get in China. Some people are really nice: they wave back at us when we wave at them, but there was also negative experience: Tibetan kids on highway is already quite infamous: they are mostly naked, quite dirty, and stand in the middle of the highway to stop the car. Normally they climb on the car to beg, if you row down the window to give them anything, then you would be in big trouble – many cars and travelers were robbed. We had four kids stopped us and it took us forever to be able to move on. This is really disappointing. Gao told us that for the past 15 years, Tibetan people have changed so much that he cannot recognize them anymore. They used to be very nice and honest, but now a lot of them completely changed because of the government policy and because of the temptation of the modern world. People have to be so cautious and careful while in Tibet and crime rate is really high now. I am just so sad to hear that, but I still prefer trusting that most people are good. 

After Mangkang 芒康- an important town connecting Sichuan-Tibetan highway and Yunnan-Tibetan Highway, the road became really rough. It took us quite a while to get to Zhuka – where we will stay overnight. 

Honestly this trip is quite a challenge for me since the living condition is very tough: I am not talking about comfort or luxury, but just basic hygiene. It’s getting harder and harder to meet my bottom line as we getting into Tibet because of the local culture. Gao told me that just several years ago you could even see all Tibetans go to the bathroom right in front of the government building in the town center, which is hard for me to imagine, not even talking about shower or bath. So once we start going into Ali, we won’t be able to shower for at least for one week – this will be quite challenging for me. The inn we stay at tonight is a  so-called “resort” which costs about 15 Euro per night (there is nothing better available) but the room is full of bugs and flies. I feel somehow uncomfortable, but also believe this is good for me: if I really want to become a missionary or a investigative journalist, I need to be able to survive, no, not only survive, but also enjoy, wherever I am, even when the toilet is extremely disgusting – this will be my biggest challenge on this trip…

Sep 17 23:09 Jz Club Deqin德钦

When we left at 7:30 am from De Rong 得荣, the sun was already up. We drove along the beautiful river inside the valley – I’ve hardly seen water of this beautiful green color in China. About 20 minutes later, Were just talking about how bad the environment was damaged here because there are not many trees on the mountain side and it would very easy to have landslide, we found the road in front of us was blocked because of the landslide. Gao helped a motorcycle to get out of the mud and found that it was too deep for our jeep to go through. We had to wait for the road team to come and fix it. I was glad that I had 3G card so that I can get on the internet in the car. We chatted with other cars around and found several tourists also from Hangzhou and a group of photography fans from Jiangsu. They were all surprised to find that we drove from Hangzhou and still planning to go into Tibet – honestly this is really nothing comparing with Gao’s experience, but I was still a little happy about the fact I finally decided to make this trip. 

It only took the government about 1 hour to fix the road for us to go through – I was amazed at the efficiency. 

After another 20 minutes, we are at the first turn of Jinsha River 金沙江(Golden Sand River). It was truly magnificent! Two rivers merged into one (one is brown and the other is green which was from Ya Jiang雅江) then the color of the water changed completely. I understood finally why it was called “Golden Sand”. We drove another 100 KM or so, passing by a beautiful town in the middle of the valley “Bengzilan奔子栏”, climbing another couple of big mountains. The road was newly paved so very smooth, but most turns were extremely sharp, many were 180 degree so it was quite dangerous. But the whole way was just truly amazing, unbelievably beautiful, almost unreal. I could understand totally how James Hilton would have lost his breath when he landed here. This area is the real Shangrila. I wouldn’t want to leave. 

After one big mountain, suddenly the whole horizon opened and a huge lake was in front of us situated in the middle of the mountains. All of us started to scream： That’s Napa lake 纳帕海, a seasonal lake right opens the door to Zhongdian 中甸 – now called Shangri-la. Blue sky, white clouds, green water, yellow farm, white Tibetan houses and the dark mountains surround… I believe this is close to heaven. 

We only had a quick lunch in the Zhongdian town center and didn’t really do anything else – it has already become too touristy in the past 5 years. Gao said it was totally a different place now from when he was here in 2001 – he spent his Chinese new year alone in a small hostel in Zhongdian because of the bad weather. He was the only one in the hostel, even the employees all left for home and asked him to lock the doors. That was quite special experience for him so he was eager to find his memory in this town – however, he was very disappointed. We also didn’t visit the Songzanlin Temple 松赞林寺since the ticket was just too expensive (85RMB per person) and we had to take their bus up which would take us forever.

There was no regret since the real beautiful part of Shangrila is really on the way. The road going back north to Deqin德钦 was even more beautiful! We reached a under-the-construction watching tower: the architecture was really wonderful: simple and completely in harmony with the nature – we saw it from below on the road but didn’t know what it was until we passed by later. There from the balcony, we had the most magnificent view of the “Jinsha River Turn金沙第一弯”. We were so overwhelmed by the view that we didn’t even want to leave although we still had about 120 KM to go.

But the day still hasn’t ended, the highlight of the day was “Mt. Kawadgarbo卡瓦格博峰 （梅里雪山）” – one of the eight holiest mountains in Tibetan religion and one of the most difficult to see – most of the year it has its “veil” closed and groups and groups of tourists came to Deqin德钦/Feilai Temple 飞来寺staying there for days just in order to see the true face of the mountain. We were so lucky that we saw it on the way: first it was half covered by clouds, but when it got closer to sunset, suddenly the light shed on the top mountain and the snow and glacier completely glowed through – I believed this was probably one of the most overwhelming view I‘ve ever seen in my life. All thirteen mountains covered by snow (not completely since it’s still summer) shine under the golden sunlight. Truly amazing!!!!

Mt. Kawadgarbo (highest peak at 6740 meter) is still a virgin mountain and in 1991 it happened one of the worst mountain climbing disaster in history – 17 Japanese/Chinese climbers all died in a snowfall. After that, Japanese Kyoto University team tried again in 1996 but failed again. Mt. Kawadgarbo is viewed as a God protecting Tibetans so for them, it is totally unacceptable for people trying to climb it. When the climbers came in 1991, local Tibetans prayed for the Kawadgarbo God to show his power and punish the people offending him. And it did happen – the disaster was really mysterious and all team members disappeared overnight. Their body pieces were not shown up until 7 years later. In 2000, Chinese government announced that the Mt. Kawadgarbo is forbidden to climb in order to respect the Tibetan religion. For me, this makes a lot of sense: there are lots of mountains to climb in the world and local culture/religion should be respected. Lots of climbers climb for fame and ego which is quite disgraceful: Gao told us the story in 2001 at Mt. Everest – one Australian climber ignored the asking for help message from a British climber and didn’t take the chance to rescue him in order to reach the summit himself. I couldn’t believe how selfish some people could be. 

We stayed at the Jz club at Feilai Temple which is facing the Mt. Kawadgabo, hoping to see the sunrise on the mountain the next morning. The inn is opened by the owner of  Jz Club in Shanghai which I really liked. Unfortunately the owner was away in Tibet for over a month so the employees ran away. There was nobody really cleans up the rooms so the hygiene was really a problem. Couldn’t care much and slept in my own sleeping bag overnight. 

Sep 16th 22:48 Derong Taiyanggu Hotel

It’s been a very long day – we drove for about 13 hours. Met up at 6am (it was still very dark and completely quiet), had hot breakfast at the only place that opens in the entire town and left Ya Jiang at 6:25am. We were almost the only vehicle on the road and it was quite easy to drive. We had to drive over a big mountain (Jian Zi Mountain) in order to get to Li Tang. Took us about three and half hours. Li Tang is at an altitude of over 4000 meter which would make it difficult to stay overnight. A beautiful river “Na Qu” was following us the whole way till Xiang Cheng, however, we were really sad to see the constructions along the river – they are building several hydro stations all the way till Xiang Cheng, which means all this breathtaking scenery will be gone in 1-2 years. 

This is not just happening here, but all over China: because of the economic development and financial benefits, more and more nature is being destroyed – Three-Gorge is the best example. However, what can we do? Economic development and environmental protection seem to be always contradictory, even in Europe now, a lot of things are being changed after the financial crisis in order to cut cost. We all feel so sad, but what we can do is so limited. All we can do at the moment is to take a lot of pictures hoping to keep the beauty in our memory…

We were very pleasantly surprised to see Xiang Cheng: it is a lot bigger and a lot more beautiful than we expected – situated in the middle of the valley, back to the mountain and facing the river. Unfortunately a lot will change after the dams are built. 

We stopped at Sang Dui, a little Tibetan village for lunch, where we had delicious egg noodle. The hostess was very friendly and spoke great Mandarin. Gao and Jie again really enjoyed the butter tea and also took some with them.

Although we drove a lot today, the road condition was mostly very good, especially comparing with yesterday, so we could drive at about 40-50KM/hr, and the scenery was so amazingly beautiful – we always felt that we were inside a picture. Because this path is not common at all among tourists, most villages along the way are really original which is hard to find nowadays. We passed by many small Tibetan villages and people were mostly friendly: Gao said this would be quite rare in Tibet since local people there have changed so much in the past 15 years since he went there for the first time in 1994.

From Xiang Cheng to De Rong is especially beautiful, no, beautiful cannot even describe it anymore: I truly believe this is the region of Shangri-la because it is just so pure, so untouched, we want to come back again…hopefully it won’t change that much…

De Rong is a small town and there is only one hotel. Because all rooms were occupied by a Lama group, we had to share a suite which turned out to be perfect: with two bathrooms and two rooms, it was actually cheaper than individual rooms:)

Dinner was again at a very small place by the main street in old town, but so delicious: there is not menu, we just go inside the kitchen and pick what to cook. It was like a meal made at home. People were extremely friendly too. What a perfect day!

Tomorrow we are going to Zhong Dian – Shangrila. It’s going to be great…

Sep 15th 7:16am Kang Ding town

We met up at 6am this morning in order to make the distance today. However, you can never plan for everything: 10 minutes after we left the Kang Ding town center, the highway 318 was completely blocked by the road construction and won’t be open until 6pm. We don’t want to drive at night – it can get really dangerous on the roads when it’s dark. We have to take an alternative path which will be through Mugecuo and the roads will be quite challenging. The problem is that we can’t take the chance on the gas because there is normally no gas station other than national highway. So we have to fill the gas before we leave Kang Ding and all gas stations here don’t open until 8am. Well, we could have slept 2 more hours but who knows.

20:00 Ya Jiang Hotel

We ended up taking the small road – well, it’s difficult to call it “road” since it was not paved at all and really difficult to drive on (although Gao said we should be very thankful if there were roads like that in Ali region) through Mugecuo, pass the being-built Kang Ding Airport, climbed the zheduo mountain, through Tang Gong town and back to the Highway 318. So it took us almost 6 hours to drive the original only 60 KM distance on Highway 318. Because of the poor road condition, we were driving mostly at 20KM per hour because we didn’t want to kill our brand new Wrangler Rubicon. The upside is that because of the road block, all tour buses and trucks cannot drive on this small road so it was mostly quite empty. Even when we arrived at Ta Gong Town, which normally is quite touristy, there was almost no visitor at all! We really enjoyed that very much!!! The scenery along the route was also breathtaking so it was well worth it.

While we were in the middle of Ta Gong town, Gao saw a beautiful Tibetan girl on the street side so we stopped to have our car washed, hoping to get some pictures from her. They almost don’t speak any Mandarin so it was quite difficult to communicate, but they do know the number so that they can get money for pictures – we paid 30 RMB for several shots, same as what we paid to wash the car. But it was worth it. She is probably the most beautiful Tibetan girl that I’ve ever seen. Gao told me that there is a small group of Tibetans have Aryan blood and most of them are aristocrats. I believe this girl has some since her skin is just so fair.

While we were very happy about finally getting back on highway 318, we found that we cheered up too early: we ran into the military truck line, about 60 of them, which could be so bad on Chuan Zang Road: the road is so narrow and so dangerous so it’s difficult to pass especially while there are so many of them. What makes is worse was we were going up the Gaoersi mountain (4117 meter high) so we still had 10 to go at the top. For about one and half hours, we could again, only drove at 20 km/hour. 

The landscape and the weather changed dramatically after the second mountain between Kang Ding and Ya Jiang: we are basically in Tibetan habitance. The sky is so blue that you feel so close to heaven – typical Tibetan sky. The grass, the trees, the water just makes you want to sing and to jump. Gao told me this is nothing comparing with what we are going to see in Ali – I just cannot wait!

We arrived in Ya Jiang at around 4 pm, a place we planned to arrive at around 10am this morning:( There is another 137 KM to go to Li Tang but we have to climb another big mountain which will take us at least 4 hours given the condition that everything goes well, which means we will have to drive in the dark. We don’t want to do so: it can be very dangerous in the Tibetan region in the dark. There are many robberies, which Gao has encountered several times himself. So we decided to stay overnight in Ya Jiang, a very small local town on the Ya long River, built on the mountain. We took our time to relax and walk around town. Obviously there are not many tourists here since we really caught a lot of attention. I had the best yogurt in my life – fresh Yak yogurt. It was so delicious!

What makes me really happy today was that I almost didn’t feel any discomfort although we were half time over 4000 meter. I was very much worried how my body will behave before so I am satisfied with the condition so far, maybe it’s because of the butter tea I drank last night although I didn’t really like the taste?:)

It seems that everything was not as planned today, but actually made it more fun: this Is what I believe the true fun of a driving trip – full of surprises. We got to see and experience a lot that was not expected – it’s not important where we reach, but what we experience on the way. It’s always about the process, right?

Sept 14 21:29 Lamuzelinka Hotel

 We didn’t get to leave Chengdu until almost 11am this morning – it took us about 1 hour to get the maintenance done for the car and the traffic was quite bad. At the Jeep body shop, we saw SUV’s in terrible shape because of accidents on Chuanzang Road. It’s scary and really makes us more cautious about the drive. Gao is very experienced and he told us it is completely different driving in Tibet from other places. Just a small mistake would cost you everything.

We were on motorway for about 1.5 hours and that would be the last part of motorway that we would be on for the rest of the trip. We stopped at Ya’an for lunch which is famous for the Ya Fish – it was truly delicious!!! Probably this would be the best meal we have during this trip since the closer we are getting to Tibet, the quality of cusine would be poorer. Once we left Ya’An, we started climbing Er Lang mountain. The Route 318 is very crowded since this is almost the only path going from Si Chuan to Tibet. One side is rock and the other side is canyon and mountains, only two lane so quite difficult to drive on.  We have to be extremely cautious: there were some crazy drivers and we did pass by several accidents on the way. 

The weather was not that promising today: it rained half of the time and quite cold, about 15-18 degree. We know from now on it’s going to get colder and colder since we are at higher and higher altitude. 

We passed by several bridges that were destroyed by the earthquake but luckily most part of the road has been fixed. 

After passing the Er’Lang Mountain tunnel which is over 2000 meter high and 4 KM long, the weather completely changed. The rain stopped at the other side of the mountain and we are officially at the Tibetan habitant region. The scenery is absolutely beautiful from up here. 

Arrived in Kang Ding at around 1930 – this town is famous because of one old Chinese song. We walked into the town center and had really delicious dumplings at a tiny little place for only 34 RMB for all of us!!! Amazing!!

We only drove about 300 KM today but took us over 6 hours because of the road condition. Today was an easy day, tomorrow we need to drive 800 KM in order to get to Xiang Cheng/Yunnan and we will go all the way up to over 4000 Meter high which would be our first test of the trip – let’s see how bad it gets….

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Sept 13 22:57pm  Chengdu Holiday Inn Express

Took the 11:20am flight from Hangzhou to Chengdu. I slept almost the entire flight – Gao really admire the fact that I could sleep so well on the plane. I have trained my body to feel sleepy every time I get on the plane so that I can get enough rest on the way. Air China has better and better service now: the flight attendants came to say hello to me especially because of my Gold member status and took me to the VIP van to the terminal:)

It’s cool and gloomy – typical Chengdu weather. There is not much sunshine in this city year around, which is why most girls have really nice skin. Chengdu local culture is extremely strong: I noticed that most people – taxi drivers, sales people in stores and restaurants, even hotel staff, don’t speak mandarin but only the local dialect. Luckily I could adapt really fast and trying to speak with them in the local dialect. Although not very standard, we could communicate quite well:)

Traffic is absolutely terrible, although it’s Sunday. It took us almost 45 min to get to the hotel so we knew that we couldn’t get the car maintenance done today. Jie booked the hotel for us, honestly this Holiday Inn Express is a little too fancy for me for now. I am longing for the local hostel where I can meet a lot of interesting people, both local and travelers.

At around 1900, finally three travel partners got together, for the first time!!! 

Chengdu is a nice leisure city, a little bit like Hangzhou, but even more relaxed. However, the only thing is that it’s quite dirty. I started to miss the clean streets in Hangzhou… I guess it’s going to take some time…

Dinner was at a tiny little local restaurant – honestly speaking it cannot be called as restaurant – “Chuan Chuan Shao” very typical local street food. (pictures to come…)Vegetables and meat on a small bamboo stick and you pick the sticks, cook them in hot oil, then dip them into the sauce. It was GOOD!! We had 612 sticks total, goodness!!! Really had fun, from the food and also the conversation with the ladies at the restaurant – I tried to chat with them in local dialect and they really liked it:)

First day has been great and tomorrow early morning, we will start driving towards Kangding. Stay tuned…

45% Heaven

This is a PPT slides by two Taiwanese authors that drove almost the same route as we are planning to. It took them 47 days to do the whole trip. We don’t have as much time, so will skip some part, but should be as beautiful… I am looking forward to it!